Perfumer, Olivier Polge says, "The comet is a strong symbol for Chanel, and Iâm thinking in particular of the ComĂšte necklace from the 1932 High Jewellery Collection"
Nice, all-purpose âgentsâ mix of a gently spiced tobacco-woody with a certain briskness about it provided by the bergamot and herbal notes. A bit of a throwback to the day when several perfumes aimed at the menâs market had this well-groomed broad spectrum of notes. An underlying humid mustiness that slowly reveals itself as artemisia is a plus, but this falls more in the ranks of the serviceable and well-executed rather than the exciting. Little by way of âoudâ about it. However, I must temper my lukewarm response â a result perhaps of my constant grazing at the buffet table of perfumery â with a more enthusiastic one by someone else. A...
Sometimes it pays to take a punt. Among the conveyor-belt parade of niche aspirants entering the market, it can be difficult to tell whoâll come up with some kind of goods after all the effort expended on branding and bluster. I decided to try some of La Closerie des Parfums âoudsâ because, refreshingly, they donât lay any claims to including the ingredient in their notesâ lists. This suggested a certain confidence upon entering an overcrowded space and that merited having a try. So, to Oud Safran, which turned out to be surprisingly good. From an enticing gasoline-fumes kind of start of bracing factory leather imbued with rose and a bit of...
In the increasingly crowded field of perfumes featuring a fresh, airbrushed orris-suede combo enters Malatesta. This style of perfume seems to be shorthand for luxury for quite a few top-dollar brands as the scent profile evokes high-end leather goods combined with the powders and lotions arrayed on glitzy cosmetics counters. If they were to waft something along these lines in the halls of the snobbier department stores, it would be perfect mood music for the nose. Such matters aside, the orris-suede theme remains supremely easy to get along with and one would have to be a grinch to resist its sweet nothings. Malatesta doesnât veer from the template, but...
Petitgrain is my go-to citrussy essential oil â bearing just a hint of the blossoms, this extraction from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree is usually alive with green and woody nuances that complement the orangey smell perfectly. Miller Harrisâs cologne-style perfume plays up the oranges and foliage, and is full of zest, but goes lighter on the spicier, woody aspects of petitgrain. Indeed, while weighty stalwarts like vetiver, patchouli and oakmoss are declared as base notes their presence is unobtrusive â this is a lively, invigorating offering with a suggestion of fresh field herbs on its breath which in true cologne style offers up...
Simple brushed geranium leaf odour, rosy and minty, with a bit of crushed pepper thrown in for interest. Itâs a casual wear-and-go thing, which I would have forgotten about had it not been for some nice lemony uplift in the drydown and the red-cheeked sweetness of the geranium continuing to shine.
Beyond the Wall is your old-fashioned powder compact style perfume delivered in the currently fashionable oozy, thick-as-mud style. Riffing on the dough-meets-plastic sweetness of iris, it sadly doesnât go into the more interesting facets of the note â earth, wax, nuances of carrot, all seem absent. Instead, the opening impression is more of heliotrope but coupled with some serious air-freshener type diffusive elements, all coming through as a dense seepage. So far, so unpromising. The settle is better, but in a formless, mellow-sweet way. Slight hints of a spiciness peek through and the density gives somewhat. Intriguing that something so safe feels...
Mal-Aimé by Parfum d'Empire (2021) is an interesting proposition on paper. The name means "outcast" in French, and the scent consists of notes or materials derived from common plants - often weeds - that grown in and around the island of Corsica, the home of perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. These plants and materials are banished from perfume bottles and posh neighborhoods, to paraphrase some of the Parfum d'Empire's market copy, and thus here they get their due. Inula graveolens is the star plant, and is joined by fleabane, a wildflower that grows all over the place, giving off a somewhat musky, bitter odor that matches it's yellow color. The rest of...
Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur (2006) is a creation by Olivia Giacobeti (2006) that really showcases her sparing style of aromatics, herbs, and incense, sans the floral component she usually counters those elements with in her compositions. Made for L'Artisan Parfumeur during their "golden" era of uninhibited niche creations, it's one of the few still remaining from that era after Puig purchased them and wiped a lot of the classics away in favor of insipid trendy things to sell by volume. As a survivor from the days when "L'Artisan was really niche", Fou d'Absinthe also scratches an itch often had by fans of vintage men's fragrances, as it runs in a...
Hello everyone, my question might seem silly but is it dangerous for health to smell undiluted synthetic raw materials? Like for example âFructoneâ or âIso E Superâ. Thank you in advance for your answers
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I am looking for suppliers of commercial bases where the composition of the base is delivered when purchasing the base. Reason is when I go for upscaling I do not want to be dependent from the supplier for ever (in case they go bankrupt...) Can someone recommend such a suppliers ? Ingredients also need to be IFRA compliant.
today i found myself in the silage of cashmeran.. but it was powdery and airy, still strong though! when i sample 100% cashmeran i get two parts, the deep base and the spicy "fizzle." what i experienced today was mostly that spice and none of the heavy base. it was like a light gauze fabric. another analogy would be if cashmeran is a deep red, this was a like white was mixed in and its now a beautiful pink is it just a really low dilution or are their other ingredients that can modify it to get the effect i am after? a few weeks ago i had the same thing happen to me at a show. i found myself in this cloud of iso e and a sweet patchouli/lavender. ...
No one has reviewed Iconic on the Directory, but at Fragrantica it has numerous reviews. They range from it being an excellent clone of Bleu De Chanel to a few saying it smells nothing like Bleu de Chanel at all. I sprayed some Iconic on my hand the other day, and for 10 to 15 minutes thought it was awful and horrendous, wondering who on earth would buy it.. Then it suddenly came good and smelled really nice from then on. It certainly smelled better to me than Armaf's other alleged clone of Bleu De Chanel - "Tag Him". Only problem is that I can't remember what Bleu De Chanel smells like, and they never have a tester at the place I go. And I can't be...
I see a lot of hype for Gucci Guilty Elixir de Parfum pour Homme. Strangely enough, no one talks about it on here. I wore it yesterday from a spray sample. All I can say is that it smells like a typical Quentin Bisch - massive loads of ambrofix and other highly projecting synthetics. It has this strange floral smell, like a more simplified and deconstructed Reflection Man.
Issara by Dusita is one fragrance that has always fascinated me and I wondered if anyone had any insight into the construction of the sweet tobacco accord at the heart of this aroma. There are a several mysteries in this fragrance that I'd be interested to hear some insight on, and extensive browsing and research has yet to satisfy my quest for knowledge. Firstly, the scent is meant to be a fougĂšre, but it bears little resemblance to the classical image of a fougĂšre in my mind. It is marketed as having a pine, herbal clary sage opening but I get absolutely zero in the terpenic topnotes characteristic of pine, and the clary sage is completely absent to my...
Im slowly getting into DIY fragrances, and I want to start out with making a fragrance I can use mostly on my clothes. I'll be using naturals from Hermitageoils, but i will need some fixatives, fairly neutral smelling, that can be used in large quantities. If natural in origin, all the better. If neutral fixatives doesnt excist, i like things like patchouli, sandalwood, amber, rosewood, cedar, clary sage, a bit of musk, leather. Not sure which of these are fixatives. I just found out that I really really hate the smell of Ambroxan (Molecule no2), and I get migranes from Iso E, so they're a no go.
Does anyone know where one can get Dulcinyl? Both PerfumersWorld and Creating Perfumes used to stock it, but it's been out-of-stock on both sites from months. What would be a viable alternative? Heliotropin, Raspberry Ketone, Framboise, Ethyl Maltol?
They go well with a strong-imposant, mature personality. The original formulations were out of this world, quality-wise.
Sweet in a fresh, tart way, very much like pineapple, which is then mixed with a slight menthol green (guessing the eucalyptus). I get a wee bit of smoky incense followed by a slight salty air accord. Not yet hit the dry down but so far I like it.
